Olympus OM-1(n) - Instruction Manual (2024)

Making Multiple Exposures Pictures

Should you wish to make more than one exposure on the same frame for reasons likespecial effect or artistic expression etc:
(1) First, turn the rewind knob slowly in the direction of the arrow untilit stops to take off any slack in the film, then take the first exposure.
(2) Turn the rewind release lever counter-clockwise until the red dot is opposite the "R".
(3) Hold both the rewind knob and rewind release lever firmly to prevent themfrom turning and transport the film advance lever, The shutter will then be co*ckedfor the next exposure, without the film being advanced.
(4) Depress the shutter release button.
(5) After completing the multiple exposure, cover the lens with a lens cap,advance the film and shoot a blank frame to avoid overlapping.
You can make as many multiple exposures as you like by repeating the above procedure.Caution: With each exposure on thesame frame (the exposure counter adds one), the likelihood of slippage is increased.Practice is required in order to obtain proper results. If you are very fussy aboutit and think other camera brands may provide a better solutions to it, don't be.Virtually none of the manufacturers have provide a good solution until Nikon FM and FE (1978) introducedin 1977 which provide a more positive way with a dedicated multiple exposure leverfor one-push operation - But that was almost 6 years after the OM-1's debut. Mostof the SLRs prior to that do not provide comfort (Some don't even have the options)to a user in relation to multiple exposure operation.

Self-timer Operations The OM-1camera has a rather over-sized self timer lever in proportion of the size of thecamera body. The self-timer provides a method of taking delayed action pictures allowingyou to get into your own photographs. Since it is mechanical, the lever can be estimatedby rotating the angle to provide a few variable speed delay in operation. genrallyas illustrated below, you can segment the timing as around 4 sec., 8 sec. or 12 sec.at full stroke to suit your needs.

To set the self-timer:(1) Rotate the self-timer lever counter-clockwise until it stops (approximately180° ). Make sure the film has been advanced properly.

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(2) Turnthe start lever clockwise to the vertical position to activate the self-timer lever.The shutter will then be released in approximately 12 seconds. You can adjust thedelay time between 4 and 12 seconds by adjusting the lever as shown above.

Stopping/Cancellation of the Self-Timer Ifyou wish to stop the self-timer during its operation, turn the start lever counter-clockwise.To reactivate the timer, turn the start lever to the vertical position.

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Note: You may set the self-timerlever either before or after advancing the film. Even after setting the lever. youcan release the shutter by pressing the shutter release button. Caution: If the film has not beenadvanced fully the timer lever will stop halfway and the shutter will not fire.

Exposure Compensation Many new photographer may getconfused of how the meter works. There is a neutral point where the sensitive metercell used as a standard value. The neutral point in this case is 18% gray (Why ?most green surrounding are around that value if scene is read as black and whiteand unfortunatley, metering cell cannot read things as human eyes and thus renderscene inside viewfinder as gray color). But in real life, many photographic situationsare not as pefect and accurately interpreting as 18 % gray tone. Scenes such as objectinfront of a while wall or a girl dresses in black shot infront of a dark glass panel-all could fool the metering cell and caused undesirable results of either over orunderexposure. In such special situations, you would need to do a little exposurecompensation to bring reading back to 'normal'. This is called exposure compensation.For electronic cameras, it is coomon to find a exposure compensation dial or onetouch activated button for such purpose. But for mechanical bodies such as OM-1,you can either change the aperture or shutter speed OR the most primitive way, alteringthe film speed setting to 'fool' the metering circuit.

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When the most importantarea of the picture is much darker than the general picture area (blue sky, snowfield, etc.), the meter will have a tendency to read the brightest part of the pictureleaving the main subject under-exposed.

Alternatively, whentaking a picture of a bright subject against a dark background (spotlighting, etc.),the meter has a tendency to read the darkest part of the picture leaving the mainsubject overexposed, In these situations, proper exposure compensation helps youtake fine pictures.

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<<-- White or brightly lit surroundingcould easily fool camera metering and caused underexposure of the main subject. Note: With backlightingor side lighting it's always a good idea to use a lens hood to eliminate unwantedglare.

The exposure canbe compensated by either adjusting the F stop or shutter speed. Which method you select is very muchdepend on the desire effect you wish the final image to present. Just remember, ifpriority is on depth of field, adjust shutter speed; on the other hand if freezingof the subject is important, then compensate it with f-stop. IF you DO NOT intend to see any of the presetsettings be changed: You can still adjust compensation by shifting the ASA/ISO Filmspeed ring to fool the camera metering (Remember to set back to actualASA after use).The exposure needle indicates over-exposure at the (+) side, or underexposure atthe ( - ) side.

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<<-- Dark or dimly lit surroundingcould easily fool camera metering and caused Overexposure of the main subject. Insuch case, exposure compensation should be done by stopping the lens down to smalleraperture; setting higher shutter speed or adjust camera ASA film speed to highersetting to contain over exposure.

(1) Backlighting and Side-lighting To compensate, move in towards thesubject until most of the subject image appears in the viewfinder and take your meterreading. After setting the exposure, return to your original shooting position totake the picture. If this procedure cannot be followed, you can obtain approximatelythe same results by simply opening your lens one full F stop over the indicated meterreading. (2) Strong front lighting and deep shadows To compensate,use the same procedure as outlined for backlighting.

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You can alsoapproximate the proper exposure by holding your position and closing the lens downone full F stop from the indicated meter reading.

Depth of Field (DOF) * Relative Article in this PIM Site

Depth of field is thearea of acceptable sharpness in front of and behind the subject in focus. This depthis determined by the f-stop and the distance from the subject in focus tothe film plane, As you get closer to your subject or as you open your lens (e.g.from F16 to F2.8) the depth of field becomes shallower.

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By stopping yourlens down (e.g. from F2.8 to F16) or getting farther away from your subject thiszone of acceptable sharpness can be increased. Another factor in determining depthof field is the focal length of your lens. As a rule the shorter the focal length,the greater the zone of acceptable sharpness.

Note: Shutter Speed, Aperture value,Exposure and Depth of field are essential components in forming an image and differentiatea good from ordinary photograph. Eachelement has their respective effect to a final image. It is very hard to improve your skill or knowledgein pursuing for better photography if these few elements are not handled well. IFyou have just bought a used fine SLR body such as the OM-1 featured here in thissite, click here to see if these few articles I prepared can help you understandthem better.

Depth of Filed Scale & DOF PreviewButton There are two common methods without the hassle to check the DOF scalesfrom the tables that usually comes with the lens. Most common methods we used isto use the indications of engraved DOF scales on the lens or another more preciseway is to use Depth of Field Preview button for visual confirmation. Olympus's Zuikolenses generally has a very good and well illustrated DOF scale on their lenses.However, the Depth of Field preview button is very unusual as it is actually on thelens it self.

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Depth of Field (DOF) Scale: The double series of numbersengraved on the depth of field scale represents F stops: F4, F8 and F16, Once youhave focused on your subject, all objects within the distance range indicated onthe distance scale will have acceptable sharpness.

For example, in theabove picture the camera-to subject distance is 3m (10ft) and the lens is set atF16: you will find that the depth of field is from 1.9m (6ft) to 7m (23ft),

Depth of Field Preview Button When you wishto see which objects fall within the acceptable zone of sharpness (depth of field),press the preview button on your lens. The open aperture method use by most manufacturersensure a clear and bright viewfinder image (use the largest aperture of the lensin use) for focusing and picture composing. However, when the button is pressed,you will notice the viewfinder image will darken or dim down (The smaller the apertureused on your lens, the dimmer it will become). You will also notice the depth offield will increase as you stopped down the lens. This is especially useful in copywork, still life, close-up, scenic, travel or portraiture photography.

Infrared Photography The OM Systemlenses are provided with an infrared index mark engraved in red on the depth of fieldscale to the right of the reference dot. When shooting with infrared film,focus normallyon your subject without the red filter on and read the subject distance on the distancescale.

Then, turn the focusingring to the right until the distance reading is opposite the infrared index mark,Shoot with the red filter on, In the above picture the red index is set at infinity.

Please also take note,some lenses such as those using Extra-low dispersion glass does not provide suchindex mark as the use of such optical glass corrects the chromatic abberation tosuch level that no compensation is required for IR photography.

InterchangeableFocusingScreens Oneof the draw back of the OM system is the lack of interchangeable finder system. Instead,Olympus provides an equally pratical solution for the OM-1 (or equivalent gradesof models) with a interchangeable focusing screens feature. The OM System interchangeablefocusing screens provide you with the ultimate in focusing versatility because, ithas one of the most comprehensive options offered among any manufacturers to caterfor virtually any imaginable needs. It sets a standard for many rivaling SLR modelsto follow , its ease of use and user's interchangeability is high and needs not requiredthe body to send back to factory technician to replace like those found on the Canon A-1. Nikon borrowed such idea fortheir electronic Nikon FE in 1978, but that only restrictedto only three screens as compred with the awesome collection of 14 focusing screensin total designed for the OM system (Originally, there were 12).

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Optional screensare available to suit virtually every picture-taking situation. The focusing screenscome with a special tool.

To remove thefocusing screen: a) Detach the camera lens from the camera body. b) Use the specialtool to push up on the release catch underneath the top ledge of the mirror box.This allows the screen and screen frame to drop down. c) Remove the screen from insidethe camera by gripping the tip of the screen with the tool. d) To install the screen,fit it into the frame and push the frame upward gently until it clicks into place.Gently shake the camera body to make sure the screen is held securely in place.

Caution: Although the aboveprocedure can be done with fingers, it is recommended that you use the special twwezersupplied with each optional purchase. ButI know it is a waste of time to ask you to do so because once you are accustomedto the changing procedure, you will not be interested following the right way ofusing the tool and will use finger instead.But just a reminder - Changing focusing screens is a procedure to be exercised withgreat care. Trying to change a screen with your fingers can result in fingerprintsand costly damage to the surface of the screen, the prism, or the mirror.

Mirror Lock-up Operation To minimizecamera vibration in close-ups, reproduction work, macrophotography, astrophotographyand photomicrography, you can lock the instant return mirror in the up position toeliminate any possible mirror shock. For unknown reasons, Olympus decided to omitthis useful from features list from OM-2 onwards. Anyway, I don't think the Zuikolens was the main caused for such decision, as many older lenses such as those producedby Nikonwould require the mirror lock up in order to mount those lenses which has the backturret protruding inside the mirror box. How important is Mirror Lock-Up to you ?If it does matter like your photography demand absolute stillness or motionless duringan exposure process, the OM-1(n) remains as sole model within the OM series thatstill can find this feature.

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To lock up the mirror,compose and focus on your subject and then turn the mirror lock-up lever counter-clockwiseuntil it stops (approximately 90°). After shooting, always return the lockuplever to its original position.Caution:Do not carry the camera in direct sunlight with the mirror locked up. This can resultin damage to the shutter curtains. Note: You can lock upthem mirror before or after advancing the film.

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Interchangeable Film back The camera back of the OM-1is fully interchangeable with the Recordata Back and 250 Film Back 1. To remove thecamera back, push down on the release pin as shown. Do not remove the back unlessnecessary.

When a film back isreleased with the camera body, the hidden switch in the railing (arrow (1)) will trip a mechanism and reset the framecounter to "S". Depends on models, later camera models have directdata back terminal on the back of the camera and thus making cordless film back possible.Olympus has designed quite a number of databack for their SLR cameras. Early cameramodels would require external cords because there is no provision for databack terminalon the camera body and thus connection can only be done via the PC terminal. Thereare a total of 4 Recordata backs being developed since the OM system was introduced.Record Databack 1 was a little restrictive just as those designed by Canon and Pentaxesbecause it uses Dial and wheel system. It has two dials for selecting imprinted dataonto film. The first dial can adjust numerals from 0-36, while dial number two canadjust numbers from 1-12, 75-84 which means it may not be usbale due to leap years.It would require a cable to connect the databack to the camera infront just likethose found on the Nikon MF-12 Databack designed for NikonFM, FE, FAand FM2(n). The Canon DatabackMA canonly use until year 1987 !

The next upgrade was the Record Databack 2. Strangely, it was identical in designas far as connection is concerned which means it also requires a cable to be hookon the camera from the databack. However, improvement is done on the input of dataimprinting. The two wheels design has increased to four dials. the Dials 1 and 2provide numeral adjustment from 0-36. Dial 3 can adjust number from 0-15 and 78-99,the year range has improved from earlier version's 84 to 99. The last wheel providesadjustment and imprinting data of 0-9 or A-Z. The next Recordata 3 was the firstFilm back in OM system to make use of LCD display. It comes with a real time clockbuilt in, it can imprint either year/month/day format or the time in day/hours/minutesformat. I would assume the OM-1n /OM2(n) were made available (with direct data backterminal built in at the back of the camera) and omit the neccesity of cable connection.However, it also comes with a sync cord so it can be used with earlier M-1, OM-1,OM-1

MD or OM-2. The only drawbackis: it only provides imprint of year to 2009 (But that was generous enough as theyear of introduction which came to around 20 odd years ago). The current versionis Recordata Back 4. Like earlier model, it is also digital unit in LCD display.You can select either data imprint of in the form month/day/year, day/month/year,or year/month/day. It can also provide the choice of imprint in hours/minutes, arunning frame number, or any six digit code that the user selects. For early OM users,Recordata Back 4 is not compatible since it uses an internal contact to get a syncsignal from the camera body. I do not have any information of whether the originalRecordata Back has upgraded to change the last year of imprinting to 2009.

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Maintainersfor OM Site & Message Board:Mr. Rick Oleson <rick_oleson@yahoo.com>; Mr. Bruce hamm<bhamm@magma,ca>; Mr. SimonEvans <sje@lrc.ruralwales.org>; Mark Dapoz<md@dementia.org>; Credit: My old time buddy,AhmadIkram,Dr of Rubber Research Institute (RRI), Malaysiawho shares the same passion with me and also lending his OM-1n, OM-4 and the MotorDrive 1 to me for preparing some images in this site; Mark Dapoz <md@dementia.org>for remindingsome broken links;Mr Poon of Foto Poon, Ipoh, Mr Richard, Ampang Park, Mr Limand Miss Jenny of Foto Edar for their generosity for their OM1(n), OM2n cameraand some Zuiko lenses. Mr Hans van Veluwen for mistakenly usingsome content earlier from his OM website; J Sorensenfor providing some useful images to rectify some technical "flaws"; MrGen Holst for helping during the early stages of development of this OM site;Mr KKLow for some of his earlier images on the OM-1appeared in this website;Miss Wati and Mirza for helping meto convert this Operation Manual into a HTML format. Mr MCLau for rectifyingsome mistakes made on the earlier preview sites. Site created 'unfortunately' againwith a PowerMac. A personal tribute to thecreator of the OM system and also a site dedicated to all the fans of Olympuses andZuiko Optics worldwide. Some of the contentand images appeared in this site were scanned from OM official marketing leaflets,brochures and instruction manual(s) for educational purposes. Olympus is a registeredtradename of Olympus Optical Inc., Japan.